My favourite Autumn view in Arashiyama

5 min read / photo spots pined on map at the bottom the page

If you visit Kyoto this autumn, make sure to visit Arashiyama, as it is undoubtedly Kyoto’s most breathtaking scenery. Walking through the picturesque Togetsukyo bridge, with the vibrant reds and yellows covering the mountain in the background, and the calm river running down your feet, feels like walking inside a real-life postcard. But this famous location also attracts a dense crowd, which can be overwhelming. So here are just two points of view, away from the shopping streets, that you should add to your itinerary. And they don’t even require any entrance fee.

Arashiyama Park Observation Deck

The first time I walked up to the observation deck and looked down at the scenery, I thought it was even more beautiful than I had seen online. In my early years in Japan, I remember looking at these photos and wishing I would make it on time for the autumn foliage one day… So now, living within walking distance of this wonderful view is like a dream come true. In the distance, the colours of the different trees remind me of the brushstrokes of impressionist paintings.

You can access the observatory by walking all the way up Arashiyama Park. It is a beautiful and peaceful park, filled with fire-coloured maple trees and camellia bushes that start blooming at this time of year. It always surprises me how quiet it is to stroll around the park, when you can’t barely walk through the busy Bamboo Grove 300m away. The walk to the top is slightly steep but I’d say it is just enough effort to clean your lungs and fill them with the fresh air of Arashiyama.

You can access the park by crossing through the Bamboo Grove if you are coming from the Randen Arashiyama station and the shopping streets. If you come from the Hankyu Arashiyama station and the Togetsukyo bridge, I recommend crossing the bridge and walking up the North side along the river. You will see the stone stairs walking up to the park. As soon as you enter the park, the observatory deck is indicated. Once you reach the deck, you can actually find a second deck a few steps on the right, which is usually less crowded and has the same beautiful view of the river.

 

The turquoise river

You might have seen these stunning photos of the small boat floating on a turquoise-blue river captured through the red branches of the Japanese maple trees. I always thought they were overly edited, but the reality is indeed very much like it!

There is an optical illusion that makes the water look brighter and bluer depending on the angle from which you are looking at it. To be honest, I am not able to explain the science behind this theory but it really works in this case. If you keep walking along the riverside, (still on the North side, continue walking instead of taking the main stairs up to the park) you will come across narrow and winding stairs. Climb a few steps and look down on the river, it should do the trick, especially on a sunny day!

 

Visit Mikan Studio

If you are visiting Arashiyama this can be a good chance to visit Mikan studio which is a 15-minute walk from the Hankyu Arashiyama Station. At this time, visits are private and by appointment only. Customers wishing to place a custom order can request an appointment to see the fabrics with their own eyes. Those who have placed their orders already can come and pick it up on the spot, so they can see where it has been made.

Send your request via my Contact page directly. I will be happy to discuss the schedule with you.

Extra tips

Things to do

Arashiyama’s Monkey Forest is probably the most advertised activity in the area but trust me, there is so much more to discover and please all kind of desires. Here are some ideas to help you start with your research.

  • Treat yourself with a Rickshaw tour. English-speaking guides will take you to the hotspots of Arashiyama, including the bamboo grove where they have access to a special portion away from the crowd.

  • Cruise down the river from Kameoka (reservations required) or rent a small boat to paddle around looking up at the mountains

  • Ride along the river between the mountains onboard the scenic Sagano Romantic Train

  • Visit exquisite Japanese gardens such as Ōkōchi Sanso or Sogenchi Pond Garden next to Tenriyuji Temple

  • Walk through the famous Bamboo Grove

  • Relax in an onsen, Japanese thermal bath

  • Stay overnight in a ryokan. After 5-6 pm, Arashiyama becomes almost empty as the shops close down and turns into an extremely peaceful location.

Things to eat

There are all sorts of food available, from fine eateries to local street nibbles. But this is the perfect season to warm up your body and heart with Arashiyama’s speciality: a full course of tofu dishes served in many different ways, equally beautiful and delicious. It might be surprising to imagine a whole meal - starter, main, dessert- cooked exclusively with tofu, but it is a delightful experience. It is very representative of what I like in Japanese cuisine: it is sophisticated and comforting at the same time.

If you want to try it, my personal favourite is Yudofu Takemura. They serve 5 different meal courses, depending on your hunger and budget (2,900 yen ~ 5,500 yen), all made of a variety of small dishes combining tofu with seasonal and local ingredients. During this season they serve their famous yuzu tofu for dessert. They don’t have an English menu, so why not check it on their website beforehand with the precious help of Google Translate?

What if it rains?

Make sure to pack your waterproofs, and don’t let it spoil your day! Arashiyama is even more beautiful under the rain, as you can watch the mist floating on the mountains, it creates such a peculiar atmosphere. There is also another advantage that can’t be ignored, the crowds are a bit thinner!

The morning mist floating between the mountains. If you are an early riser, walking around Arashiyama at sunrise is magical!


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Higanbana 彼岸花